In fine jewelry, the past meets the present

Dusty, high jewelry? The media may be over-enthusiastic about the supposed “modernity” of their jewels, but the general public sometimes has a sense of anachronistic discipline, like the remnants of royal royalty falling… It must be said that fashion houses don’t like anything as long as they invoke the glorious past to shine their works.

If Chanel has indeed been working in jewelry since 1993, it had already tried it once with the historic November 1932 collection inspired by the stars and designed by Coco Chanel. “We were able to extensively reconstruct its contents thanks to the opening of the Pathé-Gaumont archive in 2012.”, we explain to the heritage service. The studio uses it to compose 77 gems made of clean diamonds. The angular and asymmetrical star shape is adopted as a nod to Mademoiselle’s superstition (the diamond reaches 19.32 carats, referring to the year 1932). But new combinations beckon. They play convertible (star studs clip to a halo of pavé gold lines), they expand the ways they can be worn, as with this crescent moon that attaches to the ear coil, and they have designs that didn’t exist in the 1930s. , for example, a fun onyx brooch in the shape of a satellite.

Pineapple brooch designed by Jean Schlumberger in yellow gold, platinum, diamonds, sapphires, demantoid garnets and rubellite.  Blue Book 2022 Botanica Collection by Tiffany & Co.

Tiffany has chosen London to present her latest work on a botanical theme. Although the New York label has hired Natalie Verdale, ex-Cartier, to lead its creation, it treads carefully when reworking its classics. The enameled orchid brooches conceived by Louis Comfort Tiffany for the Universal Exhibition of 1889 are seen in a transformable format, where the rings or brooches in the knife-edge technique suggest buds, while other pieces resemble dandelions or exotic species of aigrettes. They are accompanied by patterns (reissued or never before made) designed by Jean Schlumberger, former Odd House Master. For example, the pineapple brooch in demantoid garnets and rubellites appeared to him in 1956. “Every year we try to bring one of his archives to life around a theme. Flora inspired him as long as it was not complicated », explains lead gemologist Victoria Reynolds. It remains to be seen whether in the future the house bought by LVMH will choose to be in the modern attack on equally high jewelery as well as other available ranges or will continue to cling to its grandeur. from yesterday..

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Georgie Collins

"Falls down a lot. Writer. Passionate alcohol maven. Future teen idol. Hardcore music practitioner. Food fanatic. Devoted travel fan."

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